I have seen wing needles recommended but would be afraid of cutting the fabric. I would do an experiment to test it out before attacking the dress. I would personally use a big, like size 16 needle. Paranoid, I guess. I have seen both recommended. I have used the parisian stitch as well. That is the one that looks like a row of backwards letter Ls, if I remember right.You have to fiddle to get the right stitch width and length but that is where Ahles book really comes in handy. It’s been a while since I have done much heirloom. I have a fair amount of hanky linen left over from my little bishop and was thinking of a doll dress for an AG doll where I could practice a lot of the techniques. This type of sewing for my grandaughter would be gorgeous but not practical at all in our climate or lifestyle. So, its to the dolls! Dolls fascinate me anyway. Keep us posted of what works for you. Thanks._________________