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I started summer sewing, Ya for me!!  The top I started to make for Zoe is McCall’s M5573.  Reading the…
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Yes, we are still working on our basic bodice.  Once you have chosen a basic bodice pattern, you can change…
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Thanks Beachie for contributing this how to. Be sure to visit her site Cameo Kids Boutique I have already enlarged the…
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By Niener   (I bought 2 yards of double faced satin ribbon to make a pair of double bows)  …
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Step One: Cut one strip of muslin and one strip of pellon 2″ wide and 22″ long. I can make…
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Ole McLaughlin, is a member of the Apple Valley smockers and does the most amazing Brazilian embroidery. I hope she will let me show more of her work in the future.

Some Christening gowns have stories connected with them before they are created, with others the stories are created by the babies who wore the gown or the creator of the gown. This gown shares a little of both.

Ole, fashioned this elegant gown from silk brought back from China by her father a member of the Flying Tigers in WW2.  His soon to be bride used some of the silk to make a blouse for her wedding, the rest of the silk was stored away with orders for it to be used for Christening gowns when Ole’s boys became fathers.

Ole choose a pattern from AS&E issue #60, called Heaven Blessed. Ole said,” The only changes made, I didn’t put the bows on the front yoke and didn’t do the lower skirt embroidery. Instead I added the lace insertion. The fabric wasn’t long enough and I felt the silk was busy enough without adding embroidery.”

I hope I have been able to capture the beauty of this gown.

Ole has 3 plus months in the creation of this gown. She has one more to make I am looking forward to what she comes up with, I know it be fantastic.

I hope you have enjoyed this gown. I know it is hard for a camera to capture the true beauty.

Jun 21, 2016 | Heirloom | 2 comments |

Dress made by Betty

The dress is called Heirloom Legacy.

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We’re currently offline. Send us an email and we’ll get back to you, asap.

I started summer sewing, Ya for me!!  The top I started to make for Zoe is McCall’s M5573.  Reading the…
Read More

Yes, we are still working on our basic bodice.  Once you have chosen a basic bodice pattern, you can change…
Read More

Thanks Beachie for contributing this how to. Be sure to visit her site Cameo Kids Boutique I have already enlarged the…
Read More

By Niener   (I bought 2 yards of double faced satin ribbon to make a pair of double bows)  …
Read More

Step One: Cut one strip of muslin and one strip of pellon 2″ wide and 22″ long. I can make…
Read More

The dress that got me started on doing cast on roses.

It looks so tiny now.

When you start your roses, start with the outside ones and work toward the center.

Yes, we are still working on our basic bodice.  Once you have chosen a basic bodice pattern, you can change it to your hearts content.  Lets say, the pattern you like has a zipper back closing and you really want a button back closing.  What do you do?   You go to our sewing mentor Betty and ask!   Betty worked up the instructions for you on how this is done.  Just a side note here to Karen, this is what you have been asking for.
We will be doing more changes to the basic bodice pattern, so check back often.

I will let Betty explain:
Changing zipper bodice back to a button closing.

I like to use sew in Pellon for pattern tracing, it won’t tear and I can write on it.

Trace full zipper pattern piece marking a line on “center back”.

Measure 3/8″ from center back line and draw another line for a button closure turn under line, I tried to do this is RED for it to show up.

The first picture shows an extended line drawn 2 5/8″ from original back cutting line. Cut pattern off at this line (do not cut any more off new pattern at this time)

turn pattern over fold  facing on red line, the 3/8″ line and finger press.

tuck edge of facing under to first crease and finger press.  cut out pattern now. Sometimes the facings are on the neck curve is the reason for this.

open up and draw line on second crease.

I needed to touch up the edges of the facings so I could see the pattern edge in that area, top and bottom

Cut out fabric, clip into top and bottom seam allowances at turn under lines for as easy straight fold guide.

Iron press after each fold. Treat the second fold as one piece if inserting collar or facings.

If you prefer just a basic turn under facing, or one to attach a lining to, add only 1 1/4″ to the cutting line.  This will give a 1 1/2″ turn under allowing for a finished turn under of 1/4″ or a seam to attach a lining if desired.

Off Shoulder Dress How To

By Betty

1. Trace one full front and two backs of a bodice pattern. ( I use light weight sew in pellon because I can write on it and it is sturdy ). Fold center backs on the fold line and cut lining for bodice (three pieces), put it aside for a long time, don’t lose it. Lining only goes to fold line.

2. Draw a line on the front pattern starting on the stitching line of the right shoulder, going across the front as low as you want, and curving to the other arm hole. Cut the extra off allowing for a seam then match it up with the back pattern and cut the extra off that one too. Mark a line/notch for both center backs .

3. Draw a vertical line on the front pattern past center front, match up the back pattern with another vertical line. Be sure to use the correct back. Now put an arrow and note to add seam lines, cut both front and back on these lines.. Line up the pattern pieces, should have 6, left to right starting with FULL BACK- LARGEST FRONT- SMALL FRONT- SMALL UNDER ARM BACK-CENTER BACK. Put a “X” on each piece to indicate the top. ALSO mark each one IF it will be the PRINT or SOLID. (ask me how I knew to do this *-*) Cut these out on correct fabric and sew together at the under arm seams LEAVE shoulder seam unsewed.

4. Measure the printed bodice top and the solid top both at the waist. Allow one and a half OR twice for the skirt pieces.Cut these two skirt pieces out (correct fabrics) allowing for hems and seam allowances. Measure the back printed short piece at the waist to center back, allow for gathers and make a slit at center back for a placket and finish it. Next, sew the printed top to the printed skirt and the solid top to the solid skirt.

5. Time to make the cording. I use the 100% cotton “peaches n cream” and I also preshrink to be safe. Cut bias strips and sew enough together for the cording full length of dress front and back. Sew enough bias for the four spaghetti straps, no cording in these. Sew cording in at the start and anchor well, don’t sew right next to the cord, give a little room to turn. After sewing, trim seam to fit in the turned straps, then pull on the cord to turn.

6. Sew cording in the front between the two fronts, doing the same for the dress back. Cut the spaghetti straps into four lengths. Pin two on the front hanging down and the same on the back, line these up to match front. Right side together, pin lining across the top, fold back facings on fold line and pin the lining on top. then sew across top. Trim seam and press toward the lining……understitch. Turn lining back RST and sew the arm hole, beginning and stopping ONE INCH from the shoulder on front and back seams trim, and turn lining back to inside. Sew shoulder seam, trim a little and finish the lining there by hand. Pin bottom of lining to the waist and hand sew to finish.

7. I prefer a not too wide sash for this dress, cut a length of your choice about 3 1/4″ wide, sew long side and taper at the ends, turn. Remember to cut one print and one solid. Sew these on the correct color side seams with ends toward front, trim and stitch/zig-zag near cut edge, fold sash toward back and bar tack in two/three times to hold in place. Hem, button holes, and buttons.

8. PM me if you need help understanding my instructions, will do my best to explain. Promise to share pictures, the choice of fabrics etc. make each one different.

Every seamstress wants to see/share. Betty

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You’re almost ready to tie! Your batting package will tell you how far apart to tie – generally 4-6” is the rule (samples are tied every 4.5”). If your top fabric has an even pattern to it, you can use it to space your ties. If not, you have some options. In the sample quilts, the bottom fabric had a grid pattern. I laid the basted quilt out bottom up, and used straight pins to mark the grid. On the top side, I marked each pin with tailor’s chalk and then removed the pins. Helpful hint: have your marking pins run in a different direction from your basting pins so you’ll know which are marks and which are basting!